I caught this bloke surfing an Alaia the other day. The short Alaia like this one were originally used lying down I believe and are very hard to ride standing. Alaia are the original Hawaiian surf board. Basically they are a (beautifully) shaped wooden plank without the fins used on modern surf boards for directional stability and maneuvering.
This bloke was really traveling fast and handling the white water relatively easily of an approximate 6 foot wave. The wave looks a bit smaller here but was photographed from a relatively higher position diminishing the apparent size a bit. I had just been in the surf myself though and it was all of that size most of the time.
This was a pleasure to watch.